What to look for, What to check
From handy hints on how to spot if a car is stolen to alterations on the mileage, here’s our essential list of questions to ask, and items to check when you’re viewing a used car.
Get a Car Data Check
If you don’t feel confident about carrying out any of these checks or if you just want a second opinion, we offer car checking services.
An AA Car Data Check will corroborate many of the reference numbers and documents related to the vehicle.
- VRM/VIN match – the CDC will check whether the vehicle registration mark (VRM) from the vehicle and the VIN/chassis number are registered to each other by the DVLA
- V5C/logbook – the check will also use the V5C/logbook serial number and issue date and match them against a list supplied by DVLA as belonging to the batch of V5C documents stolen from DVLA over the past 4 years
- Registered keeper – the buyer should make sure they are buying from the registered keeper as shown on the V5C document
- Homework
- V5C – the previous keeper’s details are on the V5C – you can write to them to verify that they owned the vehicle, and to check their ownership experience. Previous keepers have no vested interest in the vehicle, so you should be able to rely on their comments
- Did they service it regularly?
- Did they do much mileage in it?
- Did they have any major servicing work done it?
- Did they modify the vehicle in any way?
- Service history – make sure the service history runs consecutively. Use the dealer stamps to contact the dealer and verify the work done, and the mileage at each service. Most dealerships should keep these records electronically and should be able to call up the vehicle service records for review.
- V5C – the previous keeper’s details are on the V5C – you can write to them to verify that they owned the vehicle, and to check their ownership experience. Previous keepers have no vested interest in the vehicle, so you should be able to rely on their comments
Checklist
Documents
Can the seller show you the V5C vehicle registration document/ logbook? You won’t be able to tax the car without it.
Is the seller the registered keeper shown on the V5C/logbook? If not, why are they selling it for someone else?
Does the registration document have a watermark?
Are there any spelling mistakes on the registration document?
Do the VIN (vehicle identification number), engine number and colour match what’s on the V5C/logbook?
Does the number plate match what’s on the V5C/logbook?
Has the VIN plate been tampered with (it should be stamped onto the body or in the engine compartment)?
If there are VIN numbers etched on glass are they all the same and do they match those on the VIN plate and V5C?
Can you see deliberate scratches on glass to remove etched-in marks?
Does the fuel filler look as if it has been forced or replaced?
Are there any signs of forced entry, damaged or different locks, suggesting they’ve been replaced?
Does the seller have a current MOT certificate and certificate of insurance?
Mileage
Does the mileage roughly tie in with the age and appearance of the car?
Are there stone chips across the front of the bonnet, grille and bumper that could indicate lots of motorway journeys?
Are there worn screws in the dashboard suggesting that the instruments might have been tampered with? (modern digital odometers may be tampered with electronically so such clues won’t exist)
Does the mileage recorded on the service records, MOT (Ministry of Transport test) certificates and other documents increase at a consistent rate year after year? Is it consistent with the current mileage?
Accident Damage?
Are there signs of inconsistent gaps between panels or mismatched colours on doors, bonnet and tailgate which could indicate extensive repairs?
Is the paint finish even across the car?
Are there traces of spray paint on door handles, window seals and mouldings?
Are there signs that the car’s colour has been changed? (Look under carpets and in other hidden areas in particular.)
Are there signs of unusual looking welding under the bonnet or in the boot?
Safety
Are the tyres (including the spare) in good condition? Check there’s no sign of excessive or uneven wear or damage and bear in mind that tyres with less than 3mm of tread will have to be replaced soon.
Do all the seatbelts operate correctly? Check there are no cuts or fraying that could affect the way they work.
If airbags are fitted, Check that warning lights operate as described in the handbook – normally they will come on with the ignition and then go out?
Test Drive
Are the brakes effective or does it take a long time or a lot of effort to stop?
Is the braking even or can you feel the car pull to one side?
Are there any unusual noises when you brake?
Is the handbrake effective?
Is the steering heavy? Can you feel it vibrate or pull to one side?
If ABS is fitted, does the warning light go out after the engine is started?
Engine
Are there any abnormal noises when the engine is started from cold?
Does the oil warning light go out as soon as the engine starts?
Are there signs of excessive visible exhaust emissions?
- White water vapour from the exhaust is normal while the engine is cold
- Blue smoke isn’t normal – that’s oil burning
- Don’t worry about faint blue smoke from diesels, but black smoke is serious
Is the clutch in good condition? If you hear a noise when you press down on the clutch, this could mean the release bearing is worn and likely to fail. If the clutch bites more than halfway up, you may need to have it replaced.
Is the catalytic converter in good condition? Look for a recent emissions test, either alone or as part of an MOT. This will confirm that emissions are within the stringent limits applied to modern cars.
Is there sludge on the underside of the oil filler cap? This could indicate poor servicing or predominantly short journey use.
Is the oil level correct? Too low shows neglect; too high could be an indication that the engine is using oil though it may simply have been over filled in error.
Has the cam belt been replaced according to the manufacturer’s recommended intervals? If you’re not sure then replace it anyway – though not a cheap repair it is much cheaper than a new engine!
Locks and Windows
Do all the locks, including central locking and remote control, work properly?
Do all windows, including any sunroof, open/close normally?
Have you got all the right keys? Check the handbook to see which keys were provided when the car was new. Modern keys are expensive to replace, particularly the coloured ‘master’ key provided by some manufacturers to programme new spare keys to the car.
Source: http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/car-buyers-guide/cbg_diyinspection.html
